Unless you've been living under a rock, you've no doubt heard of (if not ridden on) the infamous Tail of the Dragon. Officially known as US 129, this 11-mile stretch packs 318 turns and is arguably motorcycle Mecca. It's easy to see why; the picturesque landscape is straight from a fairy tale, while the twists and turns are seriously exhilarating. On a perfect day the sun would be shining, the road would be clear and opposing traffic would be nil. But the world isn't perfect. First off, there is zero room for error on the Dragon. Falling on one side of the road will greet you with rock face, whereas the other is lined with guardrails and trees-neither of which is optimal for a rider's well-being. Besides that, the road can be filled with riders of varying skill levels, especially on weekends. Unfortunately some riders fail to acknowledge that the road isn't a racetrack and treat the Dragon as if it were, seeing slower riders (or drivers as the case may be) as "passing opportunities" and making generally foolish decisions. Last I checked there weren't any trophies waiting at the bottom of the hill. Of course the threat of opposing traffic, usually of the four-wheeled variety, crossing over into your lane is another danger to consider. Occasionally commercial vehicles attempt to navigate the Dragon, the operators obviously unaware of the tight turns that follow. Because of the size of these vehicles there is no choice but to cross into the opposing lane to complete a turn. The dangers here are obvious, but they are worth noting.
Perhaps the biggest setback and draw against the Dragon comes in the hands of Johnny Law. Thanks to the Internet and affordable digital cameras, US 129 has gained notoriety from local photographers taking pictures in various turns. Several Internet sites are full of the spills and aggressive riding that take place on the Dragon. Possibly viewing this as a chance to draw revenue for the state, Tennessee Governor Phil Bredesen has allocated funds to increase law enforcement along route 129 to ensure the road is a "safe place for motorcycle recreational activity."
Please. While I agree that something needs to be done to weed out the dangerous riders, the steps taken to do so reflect more of an effort to generate revenue for the state than to promote safe and responsible riding. The first tactic was to reduce the speed limit on the Dragon to 30 mph-a ridiculous figure that some might argue is dangerously slow and an obvious attempt at collecting money. Since July 1, 2007, patrol of the Dragon has increased to the point that it's bordering on harassment. Not only is the speed limit purposely too low, but enforcement of the limit is heavy seven days a week. Even if you are traveling the legal speed limit, you still might not have escaped the fuzz. There are videos floating around the Internet where swarms of patrol vehicles set up checkpoints just waiting for riders to pass through. One particular video shows a man driving his car at the legal speed limit yet being pulled over and cited for holding a video camera while driving. The man was later acquitted in court, but it goes to show the level of enforcement on this road. Now is that really saving anybody's life? There are numerous other stories on various websites of the Tennessee Highway Patrol harassing riders and drivers.
It's for these reasons that the Dragon has lost its appeal. The dangers presented on this road outweigh the amazing (albeit sketchy) landscape. A few years ago I would have been singing a different tune, but I suppose with age comes wisdom (at least I hope!), and I don't see the joy a sportbike enthusiast can gain from the Dragon. And if the inherent dangers of the road aren't enough, the heavy (and ridiculous) enforcement just drives people away, leaving a bad taste in their mouths. This isn't another diatribe about "saving it for the track," though that would be the best place to push your personal limits. On the contrary, I enjoy a Sunday morning ride through the twisties just as much as the next guy-and I'm used to seeing a law enforcement officer or two when I ride-but worrying about seeing one at every corner takes the fun away from riding. Especially when there's a fear of getting stopped for the most petty of infractions. Frankly, does that really make the roadways any safer? According to the locals, plenty of the surrounding roads are just as exciting, have more reasonable speed limits and are patrolled much less. If I'm ever back that way again, I think those are the routes I want to find. -T.S.