Eighteen months ago, I had never been to a dragstrip. My first time testing for Motorcyclist, I completed the burnout and rolled the CBR600F2 into the staging lights in preparation for the green light on the "Christmas Tree" with the smell of smoking clutch plates mingling with that of burning rubber. A stock CBR is capable of blowing through the 440-yard dash in 11.21 seconds at 120.9 mph. No problem, right? Let the clutch out and pin the throttle until the lights trip at the other end. How tough could it be?
Cruising down the return road following my supposedly "simple" run, I glanced back at the timing board: 12.02 seconds at 110.4 mph. Hmm. What would seem to be the easiest thing to do on a motorcycle-go fast in a straight line-had turned out to be one of the most complicated procedures in the business. Over the course of the last year, I've learned plenty. Here's some fast info that can help you go quick at the strip.
Use your feet when moving the bike through the lights to cut down on clutch fatigue.
The front tire trips the "prestaged" light first. At this point, the Christmas Tree still won't light.
STRIPPED DOWN
Most dragstrips consist of the same basic features: burnout box, rollout (staging) area, 60-foot timer, 660-foot (that's an eighth of a mile) timer, mph timer, ET clocks and about half a mile of shutdown area which leads to the return road. The burnout boxes are located about 10 bike lengths behind the staging area; as a rule, don't do your burnout on the line! The next guy won't be too happy about you screwing up his launchpad.
You'll recognize the staging area by locating the two lights spaced 12 inches apart, set just back from the Christmas Tree. If you don't trip the beams, the Tree will never light, and you'll be sitting there revving your engine until it blows up. The "prestage" lights and then the "staged" lights will come on, indicating you're ready to go. More on that later. Sixty feet past the staged lights is, logically, the 60-foot timer. This gives the rider information about how good the launch was.
This allows the bike to roll several inches before the elapsed-time clock is actually started.
It's important to make a shallow stage; the idea is to just barely trip the "staged" lights.
Halfway down the course are the 1_8-mile lights, which provide a split number for riders to determine on what part of the track they are making the best time.
Located 66 feet before the ET clocks are the mph lights. Your speed is measured from the time your front wheel trips the beam until you pass through the final lights, which also stop your elapsed time. With a better understanding of how the track is laid out, your first time at the strip will be much less complicated. TRACK TECH
Just as a motorcycle should be inspected and teched, so should the track. Most facilities have an island between the lanes with a fire extinguisher, broom or mop and other assorted items. Make a mental note of where things are.
Proper track preparation isn't always necessary since track officials will prep the surface before a competition. As you're pulling up to your lane, check the ground for any sharp objects, oil or dust. In the desert where SR tests, cleaning the track is imperative and is a prerequisite for good quarter-mile times.
In some cases, a traction compound by VHT will be applied to the track if traction is nonexistent. This should only be done by a qualified person, as too much VHT can make track conditions worse.
Notice the rider is doing the burnout well back from the staging area. Any dirt that is collected on the way to the lights can be spun off with a quick hop.
If multiple burnouts are in the near future, it's a good idea to dump some water in the burnout box; a wet tire is much easier to spin, therefore reducing clutch and final drive wear.
Choosing your lane isn't always an option, but if you are at the strip by yourself or can choose a lane for competition, look for the one that has been used the most. A healthy layer of fresh rubber, usually put down by cars, offers more traction than a less-used lane. Most tracks are used during the week by drivers just looking for some track time. They will most likely choose the lane with the most traction and therefore make it even better. The other lane will only be used during competition.
Even though track preparation is usually someone else's responsibility, it's good to know what to look for. It can make the difference between spinning off the line or hooking up for that perfect run.
BIKE BITS
Before you actually test track conditions, make sure your machinery is ready to go. There are small details-on top of the normal tightening and wrenching-that can make a run not only easier, but quicker.
The Christmas Tree. After both competitors are staged, the starter activates the three ambers and one green light, all 0.5 second apart in sequential order. A Pro Tree lights the ambers all at once and the green follows 0.4 second afterward. If you want a good reaction time, start rolling between the last amber light and the green light. If you jump the green, the bottom red light will indicate a botched run.
Start with the levers and controls. Make sure the clutch lever has the proper two to three millimeters of play in the initial travel. Adjust the clutch so it engages at the first part of the lever travel; this eliminates excess movement.
Slack in the throttle should be taken out. The last thing the rider needs to worry about is how far into the throttle action he or she needs to be before the acceleration starts.
Depending on the motorcycle, tire pressure can make a difference in how well the rear tire hooks up. We'll usually drop tire pressure to 22 pounds if we're having trouble with traction. If the tire is grabbing sufficiently with normal pressure, lowering it may not be necessary. Make a few runs to determine whether or not you'll need to vary rear-tire pressure. If you've recently removed links from the chain in order to shorten your steed's wheelbase, put 'em back on. The more millimeters on the wheelbase, the less wheelie-prone a bike will be. Those who consistently produce fast times at the strip may even have their swingarm lengthened, but that's another story entirely.
Launching a stock motorcycle is tough, especially if it has a high center of mass or a stubby wheelbase. For this reason, suspension setup is critical.
The idea is to get the center of mass as low as possible. On an adjustable fork, dial out all the preload and compression damping; this will drop the front end and help keep wheelie action to a minimum. If you're really serious about a fast time, it's worth dropping the front of the bike by raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps. Some riders even tie the front suspension down or add ballast to keep it on the ground.
You'll recognize the staging lights (prestaged and staged) by spotting the two bulbs spaced 12 inches apart. Once you trip the staged beam, the Tree could light at any time. Be ready.
If your bike has adjustable ride height out back, lower it all the way down. Screw the preload collar all the way out and even try softening up the compression damping. Typically, the lower the bike, the better the traction and launch.
One of the last things you can do is mess with fuel level. A full tank adds a good 20 pounds to the weight of the motorcycle; that's going to slow things down.
When we're testing at Sport Rider, we put enough fuel in the tank to last six to 10 launches. If you're running a competition, you can get away with even less.
Further weight savings and streamlining techniques include removing items such as mirrors, blinkers and passenger pegs. Make the bike as light and slippery as possible. Just remember to make one or two small changes each run rather than changing the whole bike. Make sure the modifications are going to help, not hinder, the bike's performance.
3...2...1...WE HAVE A SUCCESSFUL LAUNCH Enough with the track talk. After all is said and done, it's up to the rider. Many things are happening at once when the Tree turns green, so it's best to have all your clutch plates in one basket come party time.
Speaking of clutches, unless you're careful, the dragstrip has a way of eating them mercilessly. Make sure to warm the bike up to normal operating temperature, and maybe even make a few warm-up runs down the strip. When initiating a burnout, back into the box in order to keep the front tire dry and gripping properly. Roll out of the box and use the bike's momentum to unweight the rear end. The idea is to make the burnout as easy on the motorcycle as possible. Grab the front brake, bring the revs up and dump the clutch fairly quickly. You'll be less likely to lunch the clutch if you shock it rather than slip it until the tire is spinning.
Any dirt that sticks to the tire on the way to the staging lights should be spun off with a quick hop; spin the rear tire again just before approaching the staging area, this time only for a revolution or two.
Once practiced and perfected, the "slap-shift" is the most effective way to shift a motorcycle at the dragstrip. Start with your hand forward of the clutch lever. | 
Swing your hand back, with your fingers brushing over the clutch lever just enough to disengage it momentarily, all the while keeping the throttle pinned. This is when you shift to the next gear. | 
Keep the hand in a constant motion coming back, then set it back on the handlebar. |
At this point it's important to baby the clutch. Snick the tranny into neutral coasting up to the lights and use your feet to push the bike the extra inches. When the front tire trips the first beam, the prestaged lights will come on. Rolling into the second, or staged, beam should be done very slowly. It's important to barely break the second beam; since the elapsed-time clock starts when the tire rolls out of the second beam, this gives the rider several inches of play rolling through the lights before the timer starts. It also gives bracket racers a more consistent way to judge reaction time (the time between the green light and the tire rolling out of the second beam).
Once both the prestaged and staged lights are lit, it's time to race. Going into the run, make sure you know the procedure. Before the green light burns, bring the revs up into the powerband. Over the span of several runs, it'll be important to experiment with different rpm levels and how the bike reacts to them. Load the front end with the brake and feel where the clutch engagement begins.
When the green light flicks on, a good launch means the bike bursts off the line. This takes a careful combination of throttle, clutch and body control.
Once you've brought the revs up and are ready to go, shift your eyes to the Tree. Pay attention to the green light. If you're just practicing, look down the strip. Just like in roadracing, it's important to look where you want to go.
Get your upper body over the tank and your feet toward the rear. Your toes can be used as wheelie bars, digging into the pavement for traction. Stay relaxed; a stiff body means jerky movements, which are not conducive to fast times.
All the previous clutch TLC was for this moment. Getting the hang of feeding in throttle and slipping the clutch will take practice; don't expect a perfect launch the first time out. The important thing is to keep the bike in the powerband to prevent it from bogging.
So what if it does wheelie? An extreme wheelie can be brought under control by feathering the clutch or backing out of the throttle slightly. Either one is going to slow your run, so try not to wheelie too much.
A mistake many first-time dragsters make is in shifting. Some use the clutch while others do clutchless upshifts, momentarily closing the throttle to engage the next gear; both are slow and not as efficient as full-throttle, "slap-shifted" gear changes.
With the throttle pinned, preload the shift lever with your foot. As long as the transmission is under the load of engine acceleration, it won't pop out of gear. Bring your hand up in front of the clutch lever and in one sweeping motion swing it back so it flicks the lever quickly, momentarily disengaging the clutch. Another method is to hold on to the handlebar and flick the clutch lever with the tips of your fingers. Simultaneously nudge the shift lever into the next gear. Once this method is mastered, it delivers the fastest gear changes with minimal loss of rpm. That translates into faster times. As soon as the finish line is behind you, start rolling out of the throttle and maybe even click a clutchless upshift (we're back to conserving the clutch). Never chop the throttle suddenly after a WFO run; the engine has been running hard for the past 10 to 15 seconds, and a sudden drop in rpm could weld a red-hot valve into the cylinder head. If you know how, click clutchless downshifts by blipping the throttle to match engine rpm while heading toward the return road.
Okay, so your first run won't be your fastest run, but keep practicing; the dragstrip is a safe, legal way to get your speed fix, and an extremely challenging venue. Going fast at the dragstrip is harder than most people think, and to do it well takes plenty of practice. Learning how to control your motorcycle and how it responds to different inputs will not only make you a better rider, but you'll have a seriously fun time doing it. Plus, if you roadrace, your starts will be better than ever.
This article originally appeared in the February 1995 issue of Sport Rider.